The Art of Gem Setting with Jacob & Co

The creative process behind such pieces.

Most of the setting techniques are prong settings, for example, which one we use for our Billionaire watch, the channel setting which are used on most of our Epic X Chrono cases.

We also have the pavé setting, which are used more with small brilliance on little component, such as the piano in the Opera watch. We finally have the most important and the most used invisible setting, which we use in Chiron.

Everything starts at Jacob & Co with Jacob himself. Jacob has a wish, an idea, or we have a request from a customer, and then Jacob sits together with his technical team and his creative team.

There is nothing holding the stones from outside, so visually when you have a look at this set watch, it's hard to understand how it can hold together.

Grooving means cutting a slightly opening under the table which is invisible to the naked eye.

Every stone will be clipped together on this bar and nothing holds the stones from outside. It's very challenging because nothing is unbreakable and sometimes too much tension at the wrong place can break the stones.

There are a lot of gems we can find in the nature, but not all of them are usable and can survive the cut and also the setting, so it’s good to choose the hardest.

Using a lot of white diamonds and if not possible to find, then the yellow ones.

For color stones, Jacob & Co mainly works with sapphires, because sapphires are very hard and they offer a lot of nice colors, such as blues, pink, red, which are rubies, and also yellow sapphires.